Its two weeks since the video of Nigerians protesting the death of a fellow national in Panaji, capital of Goa, has become headline news. I was shocked, infuriated and helpless after watching the footage from miles away – thinking where did it all start to disintegrate?
For me, Goa is, and always will be home – where I was raised after being uprooted from Saudi Arabia during the gulf war in the early nineties. But what happened to a Goa that was once famous for its idyllic beaches, guileless locals, and beautiful coastlines?
Two weeks ago, it started with more than 200 Nigerians taking to the streets to demand answers about their compatriot’s death. Not satisfied with the obscure response and delayed action from the police, they pulled out a dead body from a hearse and protested in the midst of a highway leading to the capital Panaji.
What ensued was a story overshadowed with emotional reactions from politicians who added fuel to the fire by pandering to public sentiment and likening the Nigerians to ‘cancer’.
This has not only incited anger and hatred towards the Nigerian community among the locals, but a smooth cover up for our politicians’ own failures, corruption, and ineptitude, unable to control the drug havoc in the state.
Many locals boycotted rentals of bed and breakfast houses, car and bikes to the Nigerian community. While many are victims to right wing propaganda, others have been vigilant enough to understand Goa’s battles with the drug nexus that has been self-perpetuating.
What the locals and Nigerians say?
“No that’s totally unfair,” said Stand-up comic Daniel Fernandes, from Goa living in Mumbai. “If anything it’s a political move to deflect blame from the government. This has unnecessarily exacerbated into a racist issue.”
“By their theory, if the Nigerians do sell drugs, then who is buying them? It is the Indians”, Daniel added.
“We’ve used labels and stereotypes to mask the bigger issue, the mess that has been created is by the the Goans themselves. The drug cartel is not owned by the Nigerians. They are the carriers, the Goans own it.”
Naturally, many Nigerians, after seeing the video have been appalled by the behaviour of their fellow nationals but also feel the Goa government’s reaction has been a bit severe.
“Why wait until now,” said Abimbola Bode-Olaoba journalist and broadcaster for Continental Broadcasting in Lagos.”I watched the video footage online and was horrified, of course the Nigerian community would be stigmatised, and it’s awful how they acted.”
She was also quick to point out: “It’s reflective of the Igbos tribe in Nigeria who are quick to take action. I wouldn’t be surprised if they had nothing to do with it.”
Chinedu Udezue, Nigerian Communications Director living in London said: “It’s easier to reinforce and perpetuate stereotypes than to express true leadership and confront lies and misinformation”
India – Africa relations and tourism
Perhaps, what politicians like Dayanand Mandrekar and Subhash Desai haven’t factored before delivering snide remarks against the Nigerian community; is the large Indian population in Africa, many who have built thriving business empires.
The rising tensions with Nigerians in Goa and other places in India is already seeing repercussions to Indian communities in Africa.
India’s relationship with Africa dates back to the nineteenth century. Mahatma Gandhi spent two decades in South Africa before returning to India and first prime minister of India, Jawaharlal Nehru supported several African Nationalist movements in the 1950’s.
An approx. 1.5 million Indians live in Africa, although more than 800,000 Indians live in Nigeria and they own approximately 100,000 businesses there.
Before the government hits out at the Nigerian community through vile comments and severe deportation techniques, it will be wise to get to grips with Goa’s ongoing battles with drug cartels, lying politicians and abysmal governance.
Shifting blame is a temporary solution to a long term problem. If Goa doesn’t clear its act up now, the state is setting a terrible precedent not only for the future of Indo-African relations, but international tourism as well.
After leaving my rented accommodation at St. Julian’s road, I realised I had more photographs of Ginger than that of Leo.
Now you will ask me who is Ginger?
He was the homeless cat (or at-least he tricked us into thinking so) who developed a close bond with the residents of 4A, St. Julian’s Road.
During my six months on St. Julian’s Road, Ginger kept us surprised, intrigued, entertained and at worst … hungry. If you read below, you will understand why :
Persuasive – He knew how to pull his best face to get you to part with food and milk. This didn’t happen once but several times a day.
Creative – Ginger had unusual ways of surprising you. I was often left wondering what’s going to be his next approach. It was hard to gauge how and when he arrived. He used a different expression to show his preference for ‘milk’ or ‘fish’.
Persistent: Despite efforts to try to ask him to leave, he was persistent. He had an unusual knack for getting what he wanted. I can almost assure you 9 out of 10 times he didn’t return home hungry.
Independent: You would find Ginger walking the streets of St. Julian’s Road at any-time – day or night. Winter, spring summer or autumn – he was there bright and early at dawn or intrepidly walking the streets at dark. He drank his milk and vanished.
Focused: Unlike most cats, he preferred mortadella halal chicken salami, smoked mackerel, salmon and fresh milk. And if it was cat food, he wouldn’t budge. We called this high maintenance, nonetheless he couldn’t care.
Call it Quits: Nobody knew how to relax better than ginger. On a sunny day it wasn’t unusual to find ginger sunbathing among the wild-flowers, near the fountain or the garden table in our veranda.
Personality: In a period of six months, we developed a relationship that would probably be best described as that of a kindred spirit. In my absence, my flatmates would inform me of his visit. And likewise, I would miss him if I didn’t see him for too long.
Friendly: He developed a close bond with many of the housemates, its little wonder why everyone missed him. He was quick to win over people.
Allies and enemies: I thought foxes and cats were the enemy, not until I found ginger and the fox having an amicable conversation in the garden one day. And, incongruous, as it might seem, after a long conversation, he jumped onto the fox’s back, over the garden wall and he was gone. I was often intrigued.
I never quite understood Ginger, may be that’s why we all loved him.
Yesterday, while browsing through the travelogues on Guardian, I stumbled upon Gethin Chamberlain’s article, ‘Why Goa is looking to go upmarket – and banish Brits and backpackers’.
Chamberlain unwittingly paints Goa to be a place weary of hedonistic hippies, and parsimonious travellers, with the government now aiming to clampdown specifically on British tourists and backpackers.
While the Goa Government has been keen to raise the bar on the quality of tourism, Chamberlain, through his article is careless to imply the move is aimed specifically at British nationals.
My first thoughts were; indeed there has been an unprecedented influx of the frugal, drug mongering, carousing visitors along the Anjuna, Moira and other popular belts – however a majority aren’t from the UK.
Infact, according to data tabled in the house by the tourism ministry, top arrivals to Goa’s sunny beaches in 2010 and 2011 were from European countries, namely Germany, Finland, France, Switzerland, Russia and Sweden. Others from Britain, Israel and the Middle East.
The steady decline in visitors from the UK is evident after seeing a 30 per cent fall in visitors to Goa, highlighted in an article by local Zee news network. On the other hand, Russian arrivals have seen a sharp increase by more than 200 per cent.
As you read further into the article he says,‘Tired of being India’s answer to Blackpool, it wants to go upmarket.’
Now, anyone having visited both places will say the comparison of Goa to Blackpool is unfathomable; to say the least it’s like comparing apples and mangoes.
Matthew Barham, having visited both places says, ‘Goa and Blackpool can’t really be compared.’
‘Goa is a historic and in large areas unspoiled. Its natural beauty displays its rich historical Portuguese roots in its architecture, local culture and predominantly Catholic heritage,’he added.
‘My experience of Blackpool is that of a tatty seaside resort constructed 150 years ago during the boom period of the industrial revolution, and is localized around a single concrete promenade that features low-brow seaside attractions that haven’t been updated since the 1970s.’
Its true in recent years, Goa’s natural beauty in some areas has faded due to over populated areas, beaches strewn with rubbish and public transport infrastructure that make it impossible to explore, unless you are willing to spend the spare dosh on taxis.
Nevertheless, UNESCO heritage sites, baroque style architecture of churches, and temples has not stopped the young, international and worldly travelers seeking inspiration and enlightenment in the small island.
While Mr. Lobo is discerning on the type of tourists he aims to attract, he is not far from the truth when he speaks about its declining image, and Goa’s plans to go upmarket. Although, it is a bit sinister and lazy of Chamberlain to base his conclusions on a single testimony of the shack owner. He could have interviewed a few more locals to deliver more insight as opposed to solely draw a conclusion based on an interview with the owner of the Shack Welfare society.
This isn’t the first time Gethin Chamberlain has got his facts wrong. In 2009, he wrongly reported 2000 people were released from the Sri Lankan government’s internment camps for Tamils. This was incorrect, and a correction followed stating the number was 5153 and more, according to the United Nations.
Another article written in context with the ever increasing numbers of rape across India read, ‘If girls look sexy, boys will rape. Is this what Indian men really believe?’
The views reflected in the article were based on interviews with five waiters at a restaurant along a seaside beach, presumably unemployed. Why, of course, these would be anything but, shocking. Having been raised in Goa, this was not the mentality of the many men folk and peers I went to university or played sports with.
If I were to put this into the gang crime context in London, this is the equivalent of myself walking up to a row of council flats in a dodgy suburb of London and asking the young unemployed if they would murder another for their belongings.
The response is obvious.
Chamberlain is an example of a western journalist reporting in an eastern country where his views are visibly inaccurate on many levels. When trying to paint the picture of a country abroad, it’s ludicrous to compare Goa to Blackpool; and the government’s aim to ban British travellers is disingenuous.
For those who read this, even well-heeled travellers will have a misinformed view of the place and its people, when in truth, the facts state otherwise. So while the Goa government is well meaning in implementing new laws for tourism, could there have been a misunderstanding in Chamberlain’s reportage?
As Edward Said pointed out in his book Orientalism, ‘Western study of the oriental countries was political intellectualism meant for European self-affirmation, rather than for objective intellectual enquiry and academic study of Eastern cultures. Hence, Orientalism functioned as a method of practical, cultural discrimination applied as a means of imperialist domination, producing the claim that the Western Orientalist knows more about the Orient than do the Orientals.
It’s more than a week since I arrived in England, from a three-week holiday in India. Friends and colleagues alike have been curious to know more about the holiday. Some having travelled before love to engage with their experiences, citing mostly great weather, historic sites, friendly locals, beaches and succulent kebabs. Others, still wary, wonder if you’ve been attacked by a stray dog or have contracted an illness.
Not surprisingly, a question that tops the list is “Did you have Delhi belly?” For which my answer is invariably ‘no’, and leaves them looking rather baffled.
I often wonder where, how and on what basis were these preconceptions founded upon? Was it the hippies of the yester years, travel guides like Lonely Planet or just a matter of the accumulated historical assumptions of the West about the East, the kind Edward W. Said has catalogued in his book ‘Orientalism’.
Certainly, India is a nation of 1 billion people and still growing, lacking in rail networks, infrastructure and basic amenities. However, that doesn’t imply, if you travel to the sub-continent, you will be ill.
My travels from Goa right through South India on trains, buses, and rickshaws took us through some of the most taxing roads and rail networks. Nevertheless, we encountered friendly locals, smiling faces, delicious train food for as little as 65p, and grubby loos if you were in a sleeper class. I can almost assure you 2AC for a higher price, is much more luxurious and the experience will be different.
Through my journeys and interaction with people in different places, it was not uncommon to hear fellow travellers whine about the lack of hygiene, poor sanitation, and strange men. While some of it stands true, others I believe are misconstrued ideas about the country built over a period of time.
For example – the term ‘Delhi belly’ is pejorative and borderline racist, and originates from travellers to India who have sustained themselves, understandably on cheap street food for lengthy periods. The term implies that there is a natural link between upset stomachs and life in India – when, of course, the link is as a result of the travel habits of frugal visitors. ‘Delhi belly’ will always carry a vaguely judgemental connotation that is as false as if I were to give up home cooking for a diet of McDonalds in London, and then blame the resulting upset stomach on some innate quality of the West.
Apart from ‘Delhi belly’ there are a few other misconceptions I’ve had to deal with in recent weeks, which I hope to clarify in my blog here:
# 1 Accommodation is filthy
People travelling for four – six weeks are on a budget and would naturally like to maximise value for their money. Who wouldn’t? I have several times while travelling across Asia. However, one has to recognise the price that comes with staying in budget accommodation (i.e. 1 – 2£ per day) – will be having to put up with lizards, frogs, salamanders, scorpions, beetles and perhaps even snakes to keep you company at night.
Be warned, sometimes mattresses are often infested with dreadlocks from another backpacker, and if you are wise enough – a sleeping bag and mosquito net will be indispensable to your travel kit.
That said, not everywhere in India is like that. Infact the country is home to some of the finest hotels and unique ‘themed’ earth resorts, cave houses, tree houses, and bamboo beach huts. My advice is book in advance to avail of good deals. If you feel like you have the money to spend, go indulge yourself and try something new.
# 2 ‘I’m on a journey to self-discovery in India’
It is common practice among most westerners to assume India as home to a place for ‘self realisation’, ‘self-discovery or embark on ‘truth-seeking’ journeys. Perhaps, it’s movies such as The Best Exotic Marigold Hotel or even life experiences and blogs by previous travellers such as Abigail Butcher and Mariellen Ward that have inspired others.
Several travel websites like IFRE Volunteers Abroad are responsible for creating this delusion ‘travel to India and it will expand your soul’. This can be quite commonly witnessed along the beaches in Goa at several ashrams and monasteries – Sun worshippers, people dressed in Indian tat, practising yoga, and on herbal diets akin.
As expected, as a tourist for the first time you want to immerse yourself into the experience wholeheartedly for fear of missing out (aka F.O.M.O.)
However, because of the endless propaganda in the west from holiday websites and tour operators – to think of the country as a place solely for spiritual journeys and troubled people, is frankly misleading. At worst, it’s a fallacy, if you travel to India – its all going to be okay.
Certainly, it is a spiritual country, with many religions, beliefs, monasteries, festivals and cultures, however, its blasphemy when you try to combine that with alcohol and drugs.
# 3 Will I get Ill?
There is no shortage to the variety and quality of food one can find whether its North, South, East or West Indian cuisine. With all its shortcomings, India can still proudly boast of some of the finest ‘tandoor tikkas’ and vegetarian food in the world.
Like in any country known for their signature dishes, India has several – Tandoor tikkas, parathas, naan, masala dosas, fish curry, samosas etc.and the list goes on. However if you choose to drink water from unhygienic sources or consume food from unreliable eateries covered in flies, you are asking for trouble.
Obviously, you would like to steer of foods like rare steak or meats. Unless, it’s a place recommended by a local or its often frequented by other locals
Leo Batchelor, who visited India for the first time and has Crohn’s disease, ate everything from vegetarian biryanis, grilled fish, and samosas on trains. He said, “I feel better than ever. A little bit of spice goes a long way for the experience.”
# 4 Why is India so poor?
I’m often left dumbfounded when someone asks me ‘Why is India so poor? Either you consume too much television media; or solely rely on western media films like ‘ Slumdog Millionaire’ to shape your opinions.
I’m not going to defend the country’s worth, by arguing about the number of billionaires or how entrepreneurs such as Tata and Wipro, have been responsible for creating jobs in a recession struck European economy.
Undeniably, our politicians are corrupt and bureaucracy and red tapism is inevitable. Our leaders don’t camouflage the poverty by building favelas or high-rise walls or evicting people to other regions. Plain and simple, it’s evident, what you see is what you get.
And in big cities, people sleep rough, just like they do in London and New York. With a growing population of more than a billion people, without a welfare state and social housing by the government, this doesn’t stop people from being optimistic and trying to make ends meet.
# 5 Indian men stare
You are in a country that encourages conservative dress if you choose to travel by public transport. If you decide not to honour this, you will have to put up with the consequences – endless staring from men. I did.
The reason being, many Indian men are still not used to anything other than women dressed in a saree or a salwar kameez. You can get away with it in cosmopolitan cities, however in rural areas and public transport platforms, be prepared for some stares.
Now one might question, the way Indian actors are portrayed in Bollywood, however, that’s another argument in itself.
# 6 Is it safe?
Which brings me to the next question – Is it safe? To be fair, I don’t feel safe walking the streets of London.
At best, we didn’t encounter someone who stuck a knife in our face demanding valuables. That said, I am speaking strictly for places we visited in South India. At the time, we were travelling, news about the rape in New Delhi was relentless, both from local and international networks. What called for intense media attention was the victim’s death.
In late November, eleven year-old had been raped in Jubilee Park, on her way from school in London. However that didn’t make the international news headlines. Rape cases dealt by police officers in London are just as bungled up, as the ones in North India. So what makes people think London is safer than India? More recently, acid was thrown on 21-year-old Naomi Uni, by a stranger, when she was returning home from a late night shift.
My experience living in different countries over the years has been one where you have to take responsibility for your personal safety.
# 7 Entry-fees to public monuments is unfair to tourists
When visiting palaces and museums in South India, the disparity in entry fees for Indians vs. Non Indians is obvious. During our visit to Mysore Palace, the entry fee for Leo was £3 (240 INR) and for me 30p (40 INR).
Understandably, its something many European visitors don’t take too well, with many stating it’s chauvinistic. However, if one were to compare the annual average British income i.e.£ 26,500 (2223135.35 INR) to the annual average Indian income i.e. £716.02, (60,000 INR) – the difference is beyond belief.
Secondly, the locals are taxpayers. Given that some of the tax-money is used for the upkeep and refurbishment of these areas, it’s only too fair for them to have easy access at reasonable rates.
I was listening to BBC Radio 4 this morning and there was no dearth of angles to the their coverage on the story about London Metropolitan University’s licence being revoked as part of British government plans to reach its target in reducing international students.
While most news organisations emphasised human-interest case studies about the future of these students jeopardized, and a further £12.5 billion economic impact on UK’s education industry, what caught my attention was Radio 4’s Thought for the Day by Reverend Dr. Michael Banner, Dean and Fellow of Trinity College, Cambridge.
Citing a passage from the Book of Acts, he focused on how it could serve as a mission statement for the admissions policy of universities. In the 13th century, he reflected, the University of Paris was founded on the principles of universal education advocated by the Book, offering a universe of subjects to students displaying a commitment to truth and wisdom rather than national loyalties.
An international student myself, I arrived in England two years ago to pursue Broadcast Journalism at Sheffield Hallam University. I never experienced any hostility and lack of communication from admission officers, on the contrary they transcended all expectations in trying to ensure my arrival and stay and that of many international students was a memorable one.
However, what I couldn’t understand is that despite the stringent criterion for English fluency, there were students in my modules that struggled with comprehension and fluent communication. I’m not entirely sure if they understood the lectures, or if at all they ever cleared the semester, but I would expect that the university would have done the necessary checks to admit them to a Masters programme. But I also thought: was this something that was disregarded in order to secure international funds? Perhaps an endemic failure in most universities? This is a question many politicians fail to ask.
Another report from BBC Asia Correspondent Rajni Vaidyanathan on Radio 4’s Today Programme highlighted the views of a 22 year old Mumbai resident Mohit Basir, who is looking for a specialisation in renewable energy overseas, however isn’t very keen on universities in Britain as a result of recent events.
Despite Britain being a hub for education, with a host to some of the best universities in the world, the trend is changing. At a time when the country’s economic growth forecasts are at a standstill, the country needs to look beyond immigration. If it wishes to attract the brightest and the best, tighter immigration policies and procedures will do nothing more than dissuade exceptional talent from entering this country. There are endemic failures in its admission procedures which universities need to tackle.
As Dr. Banner points out: “The irony then is that the insecurities and conflicts of modern times, which lead us to police our borders and our universities ever more robustly, are themselves the products of the divisions, suspicions and misunderstandings against which universities originally stood.”
Understandably, the country is trying both to get its people back to work and to protect the interests of British citizens, however if this is to be done by raising international barriers, the country has only set itself up for further decline.
From a business point of view the implications for foreign investment and international trade relations are huge. At a time when David Cameron is on his knees to attract international investors and create jobs and growth, as seen in his speech at the British Business Embassy on the eve of the Olympics, events such as these serve as a deterrent for investors.
Britain has already seen a surge of international investors, mergers and acquisitions in the past decade – Jaguar land Rover ( India), Asda ( U.S.), MG Rover (China), P&O Ports (Dubai), the British Airports Authority (Spain), Corus (formerly British Steel, to India), British Energy (France), and lottery operator Camelot (Canada).
A few years from now, some of these international students are likely to be the next generation of entrepreneurs, decision makers and business leaders in business. Mohit in the interview goes on to say, “This isn’t good for Britain, when we grow up we will remember this, it will be fresh in our minds that when we wanted to study and were looking for options, for a mutual benefit, a country like the UK denied us because they assumed we wanted to settle in and infringe upon their economy.”
Again, as Dr. Banner points out, it goes beyond the financial impact on British universities. “There is however more than just money at stake in ensuring that even with appropriate regulation our universities remain international – for me it’s a matter of keeping alive that vision and spirit of universal human cooperation and community just at a time when borders, and consequently suspicions, seem to be getting stronger, ” he said.
When all else fails where do politicians and economists turn for inspiration? – The Olympics.
The tag line ‘Inspire a generation’ seems to have worked well for the host Team GB, but more importantly it is a message for our politicians. If the UK’s athletes can bring back the gold, why can’t we replicate the same for the economy?
In the past two weeks, guts, determination, commitment and hard work are some of the key elements that resonate with the success of eam GB, and now everyone from the Prime Minister to the Governor of the Bank of England, are not only revelling in the success of British athletes but seem to have found inspiration themselves in trying to find solutions for an economy in continuous decline.
In recent weeks, news of a shrinking economy, falling GDP rates, and slashed economic growth forecasts for the next two years has led even the Bank of England Governor Mervyn King to look to the Olympic triumphs to find some motivation.
“Unlike the Olympians who have thrilled us this week our economy has not yet reached full fitness but it is slowly healing,” he said two weeks back, after the release of poor economic growth forecasts for the next two years.
“It is to our Olympic team we must look for inspiration. They have shown what total commitment is before reaching our goals, which may lie a few years ahead,” he added.
Assessing the London 2012 Olympics in his end-of-Games speech, David Cameron said, “I only think you need two words to sum up these games, ‘Britain delivered.’ “We showed the world what we are made of, we reminded ourselves what we could do. And yes we have demonstrated you should never ever count team GB out,” he added.
When Chancellor George Osborne was quizzed on BBC news about the triple AAA rating , shrinking economy and plans for growth, he deflected his attention to the Olympics. He said, “Well we’ve had disappointing GDP data and of course we are in these very challenging economic conditions round the world, but actually in Britain unemployment has been coming down. Seeing businesses exporting more to new emerging economies, the China and India’s which we need to do as a country, and frankly I think the Olympic games has shown the world that Britain can do things well and get things right and deliver enormous projects on time and on budget and of course deliver some gold medals as well.”
And no one could feel more triumphant than the Mayor of London, Boris Johnson himself, as he delivered an amusing speech to thank Team GB and London 2012 volunteers. He reiterated that the Olympics showed the capital could “dazzle the world”.
Perhaps hinting at the recent economic situation and decline in growth forecasts, he added, “You have won more gold medals per capita than any country in the world.”
‘From boxing to cycling, you have brought home the great truth about this country that when we put our mind to something, there is absolutely nothing this country cannot achieve,” he added.
What have we learnt from this – Like the athletes who relentlessly train for four years to achieve the desired results, maybe it’s time politicians turned to making concrete long-term solutions, instead of short fixes of a period of a few months to a year, to revive growth for the economy.
Some may argue finding solutions or hope through Olympics is wishful thinking, but with no end in sight on where the economy is headed, it would be a hopeful start.
I was thrilled to learn of the Olympic torch passing through Crystal Palace Park. What caught my attention was the fact that it was a similar route I run and generally enjoy on my weekends.
Getting to the top after the run up the hill is exhilarating – a feeling hard to put into words. Yesterday, the atmosphere was brilliant, only a prelude to events that are to unfold in the days to come. Home to Team Brazil during the Olympics, its not hard to find many athletes doing their practices in the afternoon at the Sports centre.
At one point the Crystal Palace Stadium was meant to be one of the best stadiums in London with great facilities for aquatics and athletics, until the Olympics stadium recently.
The video captures the atmosphere and torch relay route arriving from Bromley Hill, through the former Palace grounds and up Anerley Hill, making its way to Croydon